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Some of my favourite things do to in İstanbul

I am often asked to recommend places to visit in İstanbul. It is a fascinating city with so much to see and enjoy, not least the captivating historical sites of Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern (one of my personal favourites). If you enjoy modern art, İstanbul Modern is well worth a visit. Whatever you decide to do, may I suggest you don’t overcrowd your days and take some time to relax – perhaps with a cup of Turkish coffee – so you can watch  İstanbul unfold in front of you. I have recently returned from İstanbul, it was special to visit this magical city with my son, and seeing family. There were much excitement too, as I took a sample copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the city, to show family. Here are some of my favourite things to experience in the Queen of the cities.

Some of my favourite eateries For the ultimate ocakbaşı-style kebab and meze experience, look no further than Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. For delicious regional specialties, I head to Sinem Özler’s Seraf Vadi and Musa Dağdeviren’s Çiya Sofrası. For traditional Turkish specialties, Karaköy Lokantası and Borsa Restaurants are amongst my favourites places to eat in İstanbul. Sahrap Soysal’s Sahrap’ın Ev Yemekleri restaurant in the international departures section of İstanbul Airport also serves delicious food with traditional Turkish flavours. The original Sultanahmet koftecisi (Selim Usta) in Sultanahmet is wonderful too, with succulent kofte and bean piyaz salad.

 

I love our Turkish breakfast, Kahvalti – every neighbourhood offers our favourite meal. Namli in Karakoy, Sade Kahve in Rumeli Hisari, amongst my favourite spots. You would be happy to know that Menemen and Sigara boregi are included at my new cookbook ISTANBUL too.

Eat like a local at an esnaf lokantası In the past, these humble yet iconic institutions provided the working men of İstanbul with affordable, nourishing, home-style meals, though today they are enjoyed by everyone. Great value, they are some of my favourite eateries. I love the delightful Makbule Hanım Lokantası in Mahmutbey. Balkan Lokantası in Besiktaş and Lades in Beyoğlu were regular hangouts of my dear father, Orhan – I’m grateful to have enjoyed countless Süzme Mercimek Çorbası at these places with him.

Spices, nuts, Turkish Delight Mısır Çarşısı, İstanbul’s historic, vibrant Spice Market, is a must-see, Malatya Pazari there offers fresh nuts, Turkish delights and spices. Erdem Bey Kuruyemiş in Beşiktaş, and Koz İstanbul Kuruyemiş in Kadıköy, are wonderful choices too for nuts and dried fruit. Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Turkish coffee shop at the entrance of Spice Market is lovely to visit and get Turkish coffee.

Bosphorus boat tour The Bosphorus is the lifeline of the city, connecting the European and Asian sides of İstanbul. I highly recommend taking either a scenic boat trip along the strait or using the vapur (local ferries) to cruise between the two sides. You can also hop on and off from vapur to enjoy delicacies in each district, for instance the famous, creamy yoghurt in Kanlıca.

Enjoy sokak yemekleri (street food) There is a vibrant street food scene in İstanbul offering huge variety, so indulge yourself by sampling Simit, Açma, Gözleme , Balık Ekmek, Lokma and Köz Mısır, as well as the freshest of juices, pickles and more, just as the locals do; all these recipes are included at my cookery book ISTANBUL too.

Discover multicultural İstanbul Known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, the Kurtuluş district (formerly known as Tatavla) was historically a prominent Greek Orthodox and Armenian neighbourhood, has a strong Orthodox Greek and Armenian patisserie culture, and is also home to a few kosher bakeries. Here you can enjoy Paskalya Çöreği at Üstün Palmie Pastanesi, Borekitas at Kurtuluş Pastanesi and Armenian specialties such as Topik  and midye dolma at Marinee and Mezme restaurants. For Sephardic Jewish specialties such as borekitas, head to Büyükada Pastanesi in Big Island. And if you have a spare day, I recommend visiting the beautiful, multicultural Princes’ Islands, which are a very pleasant hour’s ferry trip away from İstanbul.

Strolling through delightful Arnavutkoy with my son.

Use public transport İstanbul has an efficient public transport system – Metro (subway), buses, trams and ferries – which I use all the time. It offers good value and means you avoid the traffic. The city is best discovered, though, by walking – go off the beaten track to check out local neighbourhoods.

Visit the city’s pazar (farmers’ markets)  Almost every neighbourhood has one, showcasing a huge variety of seasonal produce, including dried fruits, olives and nuts, as well as textiles and so much more. The pazar are the heartbeat of their neighbourhoods and a great way to observe and be a part of local life. Whenever I go to one, I always make time to have a bite of gözleme, accompanied by a glass of çay (Turkish tea), just as I used to do with my dear father, Orhan. 4th Levent Salı pazarı, Fatih Çarsamba pazarı, Besiktaş pazarı and Kadiköy Salı pazarı are among my favourites.

Discover modern İstanbul It is worth taking the Metro (subway) to discover the modern side of İstanbul and observe local life, if you can. I lived in 4th Levent in the modern, European side of the city for more than 15 years, which is a lovely, residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous Tuesday farmers’ market, Salı pazarı. After work, I loved driving to the Arnavutköy and Bebek districts to walk along the Bosphorus with my mother, Gülçin. We would then enjoy a glass of çay (Turkish tea) at Bebek Kahve whilst we watched the world go by. Sade Kahve in Rumehisarı, overlooking the Rumeli Fortress and the Bosphorus, also holds happy memories of having leisurely Turkish breakfasts there with my family.

İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets If you enjoy experiencing local life and eateries off the beaten track, I highly recommend taking an İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets. They offer a unique, in-depth exploration of the city’s culinary scene, showcasing the city’s diverse culinary culture.

Take a hands-on Turkish cookery class It really is special to take a hands-on Turkish cookery class when in İstanbul, learning how to enjoy the abundant seasonal produce and a variety of spices. I love teaching at Cookistan (cookistan.com). They also run their own wonderful cookery classes in their beautiful, friendly studio.

I lived in Istanbul over 15 years and our time with family always meant the most. Revisiting family, places with memories. I hope you make your own special memory in this magical city. For delicious recipes from Istanbul, places to visit, tips , you can order a copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, here.

 

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My new cookery book-İSTANBUL; Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City!

ISTANBUL cookery book – Pre-order HERE!

My heart bursts with excitement and pride to share that I wrote a new cookery book, İstanbul; Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City, to be published in May 2026 worldwide by Quadrille – I cannot wait for you to see this very special book, to take you to a magical culinary journey to my beloved İstanbul. The book now is ready to Pre-order HERE, and we would be very grateful if you can pre-order, as it hugely helps a new book, my sincere thanks in advance.

Breakfast plate from Istanbul cookery book, photo by Sam A Harris

Born and raised in Türkiye, I lived in İstanbul for more than 15 years. I am passionate about this magical city, where I studied, worked and even married my husband, Angus, on the banks of the Bosphorus.  This special cookery book, İstanbul, is a result of my years of research, experience and memories of living, enjoying its diverse, multicultural heritage, delicious food and recreating the recipes, in an accessible way so that food lovers all round the world can make at home with ease and relive memories. As the former capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, İstanbul has a fascinating culinary heritage. Over the years, many ethnic groups have all made the city their home, each in turn contributing to its cuisine. Hence it was important to me that this book honoured the many different communities that have made the city’s food scene what it is today.

Isanbul landscape, from Istanbul cookery book, by Sam A Harris

 

Multi-cultural meze spread from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

With easy and flavourful recipes for dishes from the fırı(bakery) to the kahvaltı evi (breakfast houses), ocakbası (fireside), sokak (street), one-pot wonders and more, Istanbul cookery book is a dynamic collection of more than 80 recipes which I aim to take readers on a journey through Istanbul, showing just how delicious and satisfying the city’s food can be, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner. Vegetarian readers would be happy to know that over 50 of the recipes are vegetarian, nodding to our bountiful farmers markets, and many are gluten-free or provided options where applicable.

Sigara boregi, cheesy filo rolls from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Beets with toasted hazelnuts, olives, pul biber oil from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Cheat’s Lahmacun from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Expect to find Ottoman classics such as Hünkar Beğendi, rolled vine leaves with sour cherries, Visneli Sarma, breakfast staples Soğanlı Menemen, Acuka dip, Yengen tost, multicultural flavours such as Topik, Borekitas and nutty Çerkez Tavuğu, delicious savoury bakes like crispy Fırında Sigara Böreği, street food classics like Kolay Gözleme, fluffy Açma, Lokma, scrumptious sweets such as Şekerpare, Mozaik Kek, Esnaf lokantası style one pot wonders like  Süzme Mercimek Çorbası, Hasan Pasa Kofte, Karides Güvec, regional flavours like home-style Iskender Kebap, Fırında Patlıcan Kebabı, easy Cheat’s Mantı, Easy Lahmacun, vegetarian delights such as Fırın Sebze, Mercimekli Karnıyarık, Barbunya Pilaki, Peynirli Sebzeli Pide, easy mezes, pickles, drinks and so much more. Recipes that will transport you to the fascinating city of İstanbul.

Peynirli, Sebzeli Pide from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Hunkar Begendi, from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Yengen toasties from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

It’s been an absolute honour and privilege to write this book. A celebration of İstanbul’s diverse, delicious food, it is my heartfelt tribute to a magical city, one that I love and that has shaped so much of my cooking. I genuinely love every recipe in this book and so excited and proud to share with you all; there is something for everyone here, with stunning photography. Huge thanks to my publisher Quadrille and everyone who touched this beautiful book.  I hope it brings you joy and inspiration and transports you to magical Istanbul. Pre-orders are open HERE and we would be very grateful!

My family photo from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Srumptious sweets such as Sekerpare cookies in Istanbul cookery book too. Image by Sam A Harris

My chilchood favourite Mozaik Cake with dried cherries and pistachios from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

I can’t wait for you to cook from my new book, Istanbul!  We would be grateful if you can pre-order HERE, as it helps new books so much (you only pay when it is delivered at lowest price). Cok teşekkür ederim, afiyetler olsun,

Özlem xxx

ISTANBUL cookery book – Pre-order HERE!

 

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Exclusive recipe from my new cookery book SEBZE – Turkish Şakşuka

Merhaba dear All,

It’s not long now for the worldwide publication of my new cookery book, SEBZE, Vegetarian recipes from my Turkish kitchen in April 2024 and I am giddy with excitement to share this special book with you all. You can pre-order your copy here, and we would greatly appreciated, as pre-orders help new books greatly.

There are 85 scrumptious vegetarian Turkish recipes in SEBZE. We have a rich and diverse regional cuisine, which I have researched extensively. SEBZE includes lesser-known regional specialties along with popular Turkish recipes and a few of my own creations. Many of the recipes complement one another and leftovers can be repurposed for other delicious meals with ease. There are plenty, easy one pot recipes, as well as recipes that suit gluten-free and plant-based diets too.

I wanted to share with you dear readers, an exclusive recipe from my new cookery book, SEBZE, Turkish Şakşuka; Baked Aubergines, Courgettes, Peppers with Tomato Sauce.

You might know Shakshuka (meaning ‘all mixed up’) as a popular dish in the Middle East of eggs cooked in tomato sauce, peppers, herbs and sometimes onions. For us Turks, though, the name and dish Şakşuka refers to this delicious, summery meze of aubergines (eggplant) and peppers cooked in olive oil, served with a tomato-based sauce. Vegetables are traditionally shallow-fried in olive oil for this recipe, although for a lighter and equally tasty option, I prefer to bake them in the oven. I added courgettes (zucchini) here too, following my mother’s recipe.

I suggest to serve this with the nutty Muhammara  and Kekikli, Pul Biberli Fırın Patates, my Baked potato chips with pul biber and oregano, both from SEBZE; they complement Şakşuka like a dream.

Turkish Şakşuka; Baked Aubergines, Courgettes, Peppers with Tomato Sauce

Prepare ahead: You can prepare Şakşuka a day ahead and keep covered in the refrigerator.

 Serves 2–3

 1 large aubergine (eggplant), partially peeled in stripes and trimmed

1 medium courgette (zucchini), cut into 1 cm (½ in) slices

1 red (bell) pepper, deseeded and cut into 3 cm (1 in) chunks

2–3 chillies or Turkish sivri biber, deseeded and sliced in half lengthways

4 tablespoons olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

flatbreads, to serve

For the tomato sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt and finely chopped

400 g (14 oz) tin chopped tomatoes

2 teaspoons Turkish red pepper paste (biber salçası, see page xx for homemade) (or double concentrated tomato paste, for a milder flavour)

½ teaspoon pul biber or red pepper flakes (optional)

small handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the garlicky yoghurt sauce

200 g (7 oz/generous ¾ cup) thick and creamy plain yoghurt (or plant-based alternative)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/425°F/gas 7.

Cut the peeled aubergine in half lengthways, then cut each half into 1 cm (½ in) slices. Place them on a large tray, sprinkle with salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Salt will help the moisture come out of the aubergines. Dry thoroughly with paper towels.

On a large baking tray, arrange the aubergine slices with the sliced courgette, pepper and chillies on the tray in one layer. Coat with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Rub the seasoning and oil into the vegetables with your hands. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the tray from the oven, remove the pepper strips and place on a large serving plate. Turn the aubergine and courgette slices and bake for a further 10 minutes until charred at edges and cooked through. Place alongside the peppers on the serving plate.

While the vegetables are baking, make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan over a medium heat, add the garlic and sauté for a minute, then add the chopped tomatoes and the pepper paste (or double concentrated tomato paste) and mix well. Cook for 3–4 minutes until the sauce thickens. Stir in the pul biber (if using) and the parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste and remove from the heat.

For the yoghurt sauce, beat the yoghurt with the garlic and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon the tomato sauce over the top of the cooked vegetables. Serve with the yoghurt sauce on the side, accompanied by flatbreads to mop up the tasty sauce.

Ozlem at Meric Ciftligi – Altinouzu, Antakya, from SEBZE. Image credit Sam A Harris

SEBZE  is a recipe collection built with convenience and flavour in mind, inspired by my homeland’s rich and diverse culinary heritage. I hope you will embark on a culinary journey to my homeland, to discover a selection of delightful, achievable vegetarian recipes, with stunning food and location photography.

From my kitchen to yours – Afiyet Olsun, as we say in Turkish – may you be happy and healthy with this food and enjoy your copy of SEBZE.

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