Ozlem’s Turkish Table | Turkish CuisineOzlem's Turkish Table

Some of my favourite things do to in İstanbul

By Ozlem Warren on February 24, 2026 in Fascinating Istanbul, ISTANBUL cookery book, Travels, Turkish cookery book, Turkish Street Food 0

I am often asked to recommend places to visit in İstanbul. It is a fascinating city with so much to see and enjoy, not least the captivating historical sites of Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern (one of my personal favourites). If you enjoy modern art, İstanbul Modern is well worth a visit. Whatever you decide to do, may I suggest you don’t overcrowd your days and take some time to relax – perhaps with a cup of Turkish coffee – so you can watch İstanbul unfold in front of you. I have recently returned from İstanbul, it was special to visit this magical city with my son, and seeing family. There were much excitement too, as I took a sample copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the city, to show family. Here are some of my favourite things to experience in the Queen of the cities.

Some of my favourite eateries For the ultimate ocakbaşı-style kebab and meze experience, look no further than Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. For delicious regional specialties, I head to Sinem Özler’s Seraf Vadi and Musa Dağdeviren’s Çiya Sofrası. For traditional Turkish specialties, Karaköy Lokantası and Borsa Restaurants are amongst my favourites places to eat in İstanbul. Sahrap Soysal’s Sahrap’ın Ev Yemekleri restaurant in the international departures section of İstanbul Airport also serves delicious food with traditional Turkish flavours. The original Sultanahmet koftecisi (Selim Usta) in Sultanahmet is wonderful too, with succulent kofte and bean piyaz salad.

I love our Turkish breakfast, Kahvalti – every neighbourhood offers our favourite meal. Namli in Karakoy, Sade Kahve in Rumeli Hisari, amongst my favourite spots. You would be happy to know that Menemen and Sigara boregi are included at my new cookbook ISTANBUL too.

Eat like a local at an esnaf lokantası In the past, these humble yet iconic institutions provided the working men of İstanbul with affordable, nourishing, home-style meals, though today they are enjoyed by everyone. Great value, they are some of my favourite eateries. I love the delightful Makbule Hanım Lokantası in Mahmutbey. Balkan Lokantası in Besiktaş and Lades in Beyoğlu were regular hangouts of my dear father, Orhan – I’m grateful to have enjoyed countless Süzme Mercimek Çorbası at these places with him.

Spices, nuts, Turkish Delight Mısır Çarşısı, İstanbul’s historic, vibrant Spice Market, is a must-see, Malatya Pazari there offers fresh nuts, Turkish delights and spices. Erdem Bey Kuruyemiş in Beşiktaş, and Koz İstanbul Kuruyemiş in Kadıköy, are wonderful choices too for nuts and dried fruit. Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Turkish coffee shop at the entrance of Spice Market is lovely to visit and get Turkish coffee.

Bosphorus boat tour The Bosphorus is the lifeline of the city, connecting the European and Asian sides of İstanbul. I highly recommend taking either a scenic boat trip along the strait or using the vapur (local ferries) to cruise between the two sides. You can also hop on and off from vapur to enjoy delicacies in each district, for instance the famous, creamy yoghurt in Kanlıca.

Enjoy sokak yemekleri (street food) There is a vibrant street food scene in İstanbul offering huge variety, so indulge yourself by sampling Simit, Açma, Gözleme , Balık Ekmek, Lokma and Köz Mısır, as well as the freshest of juices, pickles and more, just as the locals do; all these recipes are included at my cookery book ISTANBUL too.

Discover multicultural İstanbul Known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, the Kurtuluş district (formerly known as Tatavla) was historically a prominent Greek Orthodox and Armenian neighbourhood, has a strong Orthodox Greek and Armenian patisserie culture, and is also home to a few kosher bakeries. Here you can enjoy Paskalya Çöreği at Üstün Palmie Pastanesi, Borekitas at Kurtuluş Pastanesi and Armenian specialties such as Topik and midye dolma at Marinee and Mezme restaurants. For Sephardic Jewish specialties such as borekitas, head to Büyükada Pastanesi in Big Island. And if you have a spare day, I recommend visiting the beautiful, multicultural Princes’ Islands, which are a very pleasant hour’s ferry trip away from İstanbul.

Strolling through delightful Arnavutkoy with my son.

Use public transport İstanbul has an efficient public transport system – Metro (subway), buses, trams and ferries – which I use all the time. It offers good value and means you avoid the traffic. The city is best discovered, though, by walking – go off the beaten track to check out local neighbourhoods.

Visit the city’s pazar (farmers’ markets) Almost every neighbourhood has one, showcasing a huge variety of seasonal produce, including dried fruits, olives and nuts, as well as textiles and so much more. The pazar are the heartbeat of their neighbourhoods and a great way to observe and be a part of local life. Whenever I go to one, I always make time to have a bite of gözleme, accompanied by a glass of çay (Turkish tea), just as I used to do with my dear father, Orhan. 4th Levent Salı pazarı, Fatih Çarsamba pazarı, Besiktaş pazarı and Kadiköy Salı pazarı are among my favourites.

Discover modern İstanbul It is worth taking the Metro (subway) to discover the modern side of İstanbul and observe local life, if you can. I lived in 4th Levent in the modern, European side of the city for more than 15 years, which is a lovely, residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous Tuesday farmers’ market, Salı pazarı. After work, I loved driving to the Arnavutköy and Bebek districts to walk along the Bosphorus with my mother, Gülçin. We would then enjoy a glass of çay (Turkish tea) at Bebek Kahve whilst we watched the world go by. Sade Kahve in Rumehisarı, overlooking the Rumeli Fortress and the Bosphorus, also holds happy memories of having leisurely Turkish breakfasts there with my family.

İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets If you enjoy experiencing local life and eateries off the beaten track, I highly recommend taking an İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets. They offer a unique, in-depth exploration of the city’s culinary scene, showcasing the city’s diverse culinary culture.

Take a hands-on Turkish cookery class It really is special to take a hands-on Turkish cookery class when in İstanbul, learning how to enjoy the abundant seasonal produce and a variety of spices. I love teaching at Cookistan (cookistan.com). They also run their own wonderful cookery classes in their beautiful, friendly studio.

I lived in Istanbul over 15 years and our time with family always meant the most. Revisiting family, places with memories. I hope you make your own special memory in this magical city. For delicious recipes from Istanbul, places to visit, tips , you can order a copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, here.

Soğan Dolması – Stuffed onions with aromatic rice and meat

By Ozlem Warren on February 18, 2026 in Casseroles and Stews, Gluten-free recipes, Regional Signature Dishes; Mains, Sides and Desserts 0

Soğan dolması really is a delicious, good value feast to share with family and friends. You can prepare ahead; flavours develop and it tastes even nicer the next day – it is gluten-free too. Make sure to have creamy garlicy yoghurt aside- an indispensable part of dolma experience for us.

We are a nation of dolma lovers and I love the ritual of dolma making at home, where generations get together and make dolma; I was lucky enough to make many dolmas with my parents and grandparents. You will find one of my favourites, Biber Dolması, Stuffed peppers with aromatic rice and ground/minced meat, in my new cookery book İSTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City – you can order a copy HERE worldwide.

Afiyet olsun,

Ozlem x

Soğan Dolması – Stuffed onions with aromatic rice and meat

This soğan dolması is one of the easiest and tastiest dolmas you can make. I used a mixture of red and yellow medium to large onions, they look so pretty and taste delicious, though you can use either. Baking brings extra natural sweetness to the onions and a touch of tangy pomegranate molasses in the filling adds a delicious tang. I used ground/minced lamb in the filling – you can use other meat, just make sure it has about 15-20 % fat for flavour. You can also use a vegetarian filling; I love loads of sauteed onions, pine nuts, currants, herbs in the filling, along with rice or cooked green lentils as a vegetarian filling. Soğan dolması really is a delicious, good value feast to share with family and friends. You can prepare ahead; flavours develop and it tastes even nicer the next day - it is gluten-free too. Make sure to have creamy garlicy yoghurt aside- an indispensable part of dolma experience for us.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: One pot dolma

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients

6 medium to large yellow and red onions
For the filling:
200g/7oz minced/ground lamb – or beef, 20% fat
225g/8oz long or short grain rice, rinsed
Small, core parts of the cooked onions, finely chopped
Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (save 1 tsp for serving)
2tsp dried mint
2tbsp pomegranate molasses
3tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
2tbsp Turkish red pepper paste
85ml/3fl oz water
2tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce:
55g/2oz butter, melted
2tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
450ml/16fl oz water
For the garlic yoghurt:
2-3 garlic cloves crushed with salt and finely chopped
400g/14 oz plain yoghurt

Instructions

Trim both ends of the onions, peel the skin and layer beneath, as it can be tough. Using a knife, make a vertical incision on each onion, until you reach the half point, the core of each onion (this helps to separate the layers, after boiling). Gently place the onions on a large pan of boiling water, partially cover and simmer for 10 minutes; onion layers will soften but not be mushy. Drain the water and place the softened onions on a large tray to cool.
Once cool, gently separate the onion layers, discarding the thin membranes on onion layers; take care not to tear the onion layers.
Save the smaller core parts of the onions; finely dice them to add to a large bowl, for the filling. Stir in the remaining filling ingredients except the meat. Season (2 tsp salt recommended) and knead with your hands to combine well. Stir in the meat and combine again. Filling needs to be a little loose, hence the addition of water is important.
Preheat oven to fan 180C/200C/400F. Have a 30cm diameter round or square baking dish, 6 cm deep.
To stuff the onion, take a layer and place about 1 ½ tbsp of the filling on the inner side and roll to seal (it will look like a fat shallot shape. Place on the baking dish. Keep on stuffing and layering each soğan dolması next to one another, quite snug, in one layer.
Combine the sauce ingredients, season with salt and pepper and gently pour over the stuffed onions. Cover the dish and bake for 45 minutes. Then uncover and bake for further 15 minutes; most of the sauce would be absorbed and the dolmas have a lovely golden colour with dark brown patches. Cover and let the dolma to rest for 10 minutes.
In the meantime, combine the garlic with yoghurt, season to taste.
Serve soğan dolması with a little sauce over and sprinkle of parsley and garlic yoghurt aside.

My new cookery book-İSTANBUL; Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City!

By Ozlem Warren on February 11, 2026 in Cakes and Desserts, Fascinating Istanbul, ISTANBUL cookery book, Pasta – Makarna, Pilafs and Rice, Regional Signature Dishes; Mains, Sides and Desserts, Roasts and Kebaps, Salads, Savory Pastries, Seafood, Soups, Travels, Turkish Breakfast, Turkish cookery book, Turkish Street Food 0

ISTANBUL cookery book – Pre-order HERE!

My heart bursts with excitement and pride to share that I wrote a new cookery book, İstanbul; Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City, to be published in May 2026 worldwide by Quadrille – I cannot wait for you to see this very special book, to take you to a magical culinary journey to my beloved İstanbul. The book now is ready to Pre-order HERE, and we would be very grateful if you can pre-order, as it hugely helps a new book, my sincere thanks in advance.

Breakfast plate from Istanbul cookery book, photo by Sam A Harris

Born and raised in Türkiye, I lived in İstanbul for more than 15 years. I am passionate about this magical city, where I studied, worked and even married my husband, Angus, on the banks of the Bosphorus. This special cookery book, İstanbul, is a result of my years of research, experience and memories of living, enjoying its diverse, multicultural heritage, delicious food and recreating the recipes, in an accessible way so that food lovers all round the world can make at home with ease and relive memories. As the former capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, İstanbul has a fascinating culinary heritage. Over the years, many ethnic groups have all made the city their home, each in turn contributing to its cuisine. Hence it was important to me that this book honoured the many different communities that have made the city’s food scene what it is today.

Isanbul landscape, from Istanbul cookery book, by Sam A Harris

Multi-cultural meze spread from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

With easy and flavourful recipes for dishes from the fırın (bakery) to the kahvaltı evi (breakfast houses), ocakbası (fireside), sokak (street), one-pot wonders and more, Istanbul cookery book is a dynamic collection of more than 80 recipes which I aim to take readers on a journey through Istanbul, showing just how delicious and satisfying the city’s food can be, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner. Vegetarian readers would be happy to know that over 50 of the recipes are vegetarian, nodding to our bountiful farmers markets, and many are gluten-free or provided options where applicable.

Sigara boregi, cheesy filo rolls from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Beets with toasted hazelnuts, olives, pul biber oil from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Cheat’s Lahmacun from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Expect to find Ottoman classics such as Hünkar Beğendi, rolled vine leaves with sour cherries, Visneli Sarma, breakfast staples Soğanlı Menemen, Acuka dip, Yengen tost, multicultural flavours such as Topik, Borekitas and nutty Çerkez Tavuğu, delicious savoury bakes like crispy Fırında Sigara Böreği, street food classics like Kolay Gözleme, fluffy Açma, Lokma, scrumptious sweets such as Şekerpare, Mozaik Kek, Esnaf lokantası style one pot wonders like Süzme Mercimek Çorbası, Hasan Pasa Kofte, Karides Güvec, regional flavours like home-style Iskender Kebap, Fırında Patlıcan Kebabı, easy Cheat’s Mantı, Easy Lahmacun, vegetarian delights such as Fırın Sebze, Mercimekli Karnıyarık, Barbunya Pilaki, Peynirli Sebzeli Pide, easy mezes, pickles, drinks and so much more. Recipes that will transport you to the fascinating city of İstanbul.

Peynirli, Sebzeli Pide from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Hunkar Begendi, from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Yengen toasties from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

It’s been an absolute honour and privilege to write this book. A celebration of İstanbul’s diverse, delicious food, it is my heartfelt tribute to a magical city, one that I love and that has shaped so much of my cooking. I genuinely love every recipe in this book and so excited and proud to share with you all; there is something for everyone here, with stunning photography. Huge thanks to my publisher Quadrille and everyone who touched this beautiful book. I hope it brings you joy and inspiration and transports you to magical Istanbul. Pre-orders are open HERE and we would be very grateful!

My family photo from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

Srumptious sweets such as Sekerpare cookies in Istanbul cookery book too. Image by Sam A Harris

My chilchood favourite Mozaik Cake with dried cherries and pistachios from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

I can’t wait for you to cook from my new book, Istanbul! We would be grateful if you can pre-order HERE, as it helps new books so much (you only pay when it is delivered at lowest price). Cok teşekkür ederim, afiyetler olsun,

Özlem xxx