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ISTANBUL cookery book

Beetroot with Olives, Toasted Hazelnuts and Pul Biber Oil

I am excited to share with you, one of my favourite recipes at my new cook book, ISTANBUL – it is Beetroot with Olives, Toasted Hazelnuts and Pul Biber Oil, Zeytinli, Fındıklı, Pul Biber Soslu Pancar. Everyone I serve love this, even dear Nigella Lawson is a fan.

Beets with toasted hazelnuts, olives, pul biber oil from Istanbul cookery book, image by Sam A Harris

We love pancar (beetroot) and great big bunches of it can be found in our pazar (farmers markets) in İstanbul. The modern eateries and cafés of the city also serve it in salads, usually cooked and then dressed in oil and vinegar, but sometimes grated and mixed with yoghurt too. Inspired by this, I combined cooked beetroot with briny green olives and crunchy, toasted hazelnuts, ingredients that bring layers of flavour and texture to this easy meze. The nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses) in the dressing adds a natural sweet-and-sourness that goes well with the beetroot, complementing both the cooling yoghurt and the heat of the pul biber oil. You can replace the hazelnuts with your choice of nuts, if you wish.

Prepare ahead This is a great one to make ahead, as the flavours develop as it sits. You can make it a day ahead and keep in the refrigerator, covered. Drizzle the pul biber oil just before serving.

I hope you enjoy my recipe, from ISTANBUL cookery book. Over 85 delicious, easy to make flavours from Istanbul included in the book (over 50 of them vegetarian too), along with stunning design and photography. You can get a copy here

Afiyet Olsun,

Ozlem x

Beetroot with Olives, Toasted Hazelnuts and Pul Biber Oil
 
We love pancar (beetroot) and great big bunches of it can be found in our pazar (farmers markets) in İstanbul. The modern eateries and cafés of the city also serve it in salads, usually cooked and then dressed in oil and vinegar, but sometimes grated and mixed with yoghurt too. Inspired by this, I combined cooked beetroot with briny green olives and crunchy, toasted hazelnuts, ingredients that bring layers of flavour and texture to this easy meze. The nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses) in the dressing adds a natural sweet-and-sourness that goes well with the beetroot, complementing both the cooling yoghurt and the heat of the pul biber oil. You can replace the hazelnuts with your choice of nuts, if you wish.
Author:
Recipe type: Vegetarian Meze
Cuisine: Turkish Cuisine
Serves: 6
Ingredients
  • 650 g (1 lb 7 oz) beetroot (beets) - raw or pre-cooked-
  • 4 spring onions (scallions), trimmed and finely chopped 85 g (3 oz) stoned (pitted) green olives, halved
  • 55 g (2 oz) shelled hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
  • small handful parsley, finely chopped
  • For the garlic yoghurt:
  • 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
  • 170 g (6 oz) full fat Turkish or Greek yoghurt (use a plant-based version, if preferred)
  • For the dressing:
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 30 ml (1 fl oz) nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses)
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • For the pul biber oil:
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon pul biber (Aleppo pepper)
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
  1. Take the yoghurt out of the refrigerator about 45 minutes before serving to bring to room temperature. Stir in the garlic, season with salt and set aside.
  2. If you prefer to cook your beetroot, wash, trim and pat dry. Wrap each beetroot in foil (first cutting small beetroot in half lengthways and large ones into quarters), place on a baking tray (pan) and bake in an oven preheated to 200˚C fan/220˚C (425˚F) for about an hour. Allow to cool before carefully peeling the skin and cutting into 5 mm (1/4 in) thick slices.
  3. If using pre-cooked beetroot, drain the excess juice from the package, halve any large beetroot, then cut into 5 mm (1/4 in) thick slices.
  4. Place the beetroot in a bowl, add the spring onions and olives and combine well.
  5. Toast the hazelnuts in a small, dry pan set over a medium heat for 2½ –3 minutes, until they start to turn golden, stirring often. Remove from the heat and set aside.
  6. Pour the extra virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses and lemon juice into a small bowl, season with salt and pepper and give everything a good mix with a small spoon.
  7. Pour the olive oil into a small pan, stir in the pul biber (Aleppo pepper) and allow to infuse over a low heat for about 45 seconds.
  8. Stir most of the toasted hazelnuts into the beetroot mixture, reserving some for garnish. Pour over the dressing, combine well, then spoon onto a wide serving dish and top with dollops of the yoghurt, swirling it to reveal the lovely shades of pink and red. Sprinkle with the reserved hazelnuts and the parsley, and drizzle over the pul biber oil.
 

 

 

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Cheat’s Yağlama; Layered flatbreads with meat sauce and garlic yoghurt

 

Yağlama is a delicious and important specialty from Kayseri, central Anatolia. This lovely dish consists of layering the soft flat breads, with a juicy meat sauce between each layer.  Once stacked on top of another, it is quartered and served with garlic yoghurt. It makes an impressive and delicious meal share with friends and family.

I love making my own soft flatbreads for yağlama (see my recipe here if you like to make your own flat breads) when I can, but when pressed with time, I make this quick, cheat’s version, using tortilla wraps. Some folks also use thin, round lavash breads at home. It makes a delicious, comforting meal to share, fast. Yağlama requires a nice and juicy sauce, to soften the flatbreads, and the garlic yoghurt is a must to serve; one of our favourite family meals.

 

Many one pot wonders, easy Lahmacun using tortilla wraps (along with homemade dough), as well as over 50 vegetarian recipes are included in my new cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City; dishes you can prepare ahead and freeze too (please note that yağlama is not included in this book). You can get a copy here worldwide.

I hope you enjoy this delicious and made easy yağlama feast,

Afiyet olsun,

Ozlem x

Yağlama; Layered flatbreads with meat sauce and garlic yoghurt
 
Yağlama is a delicious and important specialty from Kayseri, central Anatolia. This lovely dish consists of layering the soft flat breads, with a juicy meat sauce between each layer. Once stacked on top of another, it is quartered and served with garlic yoghurt. It makes an impressive and delicious meal share with friends and family. I love making my own soft flatbreads for yağlama (see my recipe here if you like to make your own flat breads) when I can, but when pressed with time, I make this quick, cheat’s version, using tortilla wraps. Some folks also use thin, round lavash breads at home. It makes a delicious, comforting meal to share, fast. Yağlama requires a nice and juicy sauce, to soften the flatbreads, and the garlic yoghurt is a must to serve; one of our favourite family meals. I hope you enjoy this delicious and made easy yağlama feast.
Author:
Recipe type: Easy, comfort food, layered flatbreads with meat sauce, regional recipes
Cuisine: Turkish cuisine
Serves: 4-5
Ingredients
  • 8 flour tortilla wraps (24cm in diameter)
  • 750g/1lb 10 oz minced (ground) lamb or beef (15 % fat)
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 2 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
  • 1 tbsp Turkish pepper paste (optional, replace with tomato paste if you wish)
  • ½ tsp pul biber
  • 400g/14 oz a can of finely chopped tomatoes
  • 85 g sivri biber or padron peppers, deseeded and finely chopped
  • 425ml/15fl oz water
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (reserve 1 tbsp for decoration)
  • For the garlic yoghurt:
  • 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
  • 400g yoghurt (full fat if you can)
Instructions
  1. Combine the garlic with yoghurt, season to taste, set aside to bring to room temperature.
  2. Place the minced meat on a wide pan, and saute for 8 minutes over medium to high heat, stirring and breaking into small parts, until browned. Pour the olive oil and stir in the butter to the pan and add the onions, saute for a further 7 minutes; the onions will soften.
  3. Add the peppers and saute for another 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato and pepper paste, give everything a good mix. Add the chopped tomatoes, combine well. Pour the water, season with salt, pepper, pul biber, combine and bring to boil. Simmer for 10 minutes over low to medium heat. Add parsley, mix and keep the heat on lowest setting.
  4. Fold a tortilla wrap in half and fold again, then dip the edges into the juicy meat sauce. Place this tortilla wrap flat on a large serving plate or a dish, ideally with 5cm height, so the sauce dribbling at the sides can stay in. Generously spread about 4 tbsps of the meat sauce over, leaving about 1cm around the edges filling free. Working fast, continue this way, wetting the edges of each tortilla and spreading the meat mixture over and layering on top of each other. Spread the remaining sauce over the final tortilla and scatter reserved parsley over. Turn the heat off the sauce.
  5. Cut the yağlama stack in the quarters and serve immediately, with garlic yoghurt. We place a ½ tbsp of garlic yoghurt over each yağlama wedge, then roll and enjoy – you will need paper napkins! Afiyet olsun.
 

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Some of my favourite things do to in İstanbul

I am often asked to recommend places to visit in İstanbul. It is a fascinating city with so much to see and enjoy, not least the captivating historical sites of Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern (one of my personal favourites). If you enjoy modern art, İstanbul Modern is well worth a visit. Whatever you decide to do, may I suggest you don’t overcrowd your days and take some time to relax – perhaps with a cup of Turkish coffee – so you can watch  İstanbul unfold in front of you. I have recently returned from İstanbul, it was special to visit this magical city with my son, and seeing family. There were much excitement too, as I took a sample copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the city, to show family. Here are some of my favourite things to experience in the Queen of the cities.

Some of my favourite eateries For the ultimate ocakbaşı-style kebab and meze experience, look no further than Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. For delicious regional specialties, I head to Sinem Özler’s Seraf Vadi and Musa Dağdeviren’s Çiya Sofrası. For traditional Turkish specialties, Karaköy Lokantası and Borsa Restaurants are amongst my favourites places to eat in İstanbul. Sahrap Soysal’s Sahrap’ın Ev Yemekleri restaurant in the international departures section of İstanbul Airport also serves delicious food with traditional Turkish flavours. The original Sultanahmet koftecisi (Selim Usta) in Sultanahmet is wonderful too, with succulent kofte and bean piyaz salad.

 

I love our Turkish breakfast, Kahvalti – every neighbourhood offers our favourite meal. Namli in Karakoy, Sade Kahve in Rumeli Hisari, amongst my favourite spots. You would be happy to know that Menemen and Sigara boregi are included at my new cookbook ISTANBUL too.

Eat like a local at an esnaf lokantası In the past, these humble yet iconic institutions provided the working men of İstanbul with affordable, nourishing, home-style meals, though today they are enjoyed by everyone. Great value, they are some of my favourite eateries. I love the delightful Makbule Hanım Lokantası in Mahmutbey. Balkan Lokantası in Besiktaş and Lades in Beyoğlu were regular hangouts of my dear father, Orhan – I’m grateful to have enjoyed countless Süzme Mercimek Çorbası at these places with him.

Spices, nuts, Turkish Delight Mısır Çarşısı, İstanbul’s historic, vibrant Spice Market, is a must-see, Malatya Pazari there offers fresh nuts, Turkish delights and spices. Erdem Bey Kuruyemiş in Beşiktaş, and Koz İstanbul Kuruyemiş in Kadıköy, are wonderful choices too for nuts and dried fruit. Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Turkish coffee shop at the entrance of Spice Market is lovely to visit and get Turkish coffee.

Bosphorus boat tour The Bosphorus is the lifeline of the city, connecting the European and Asian sides of İstanbul. I highly recommend taking either a scenic boat trip along the strait or using the vapur (local ferries) to cruise between the two sides. You can also hop on and off from vapur to enjoy delicacies in each district, for instance the famous, creamy yoghurt in Kanlıca.

Enjoy sokak yemekleri (street food) There is a vibrant street food scene in İstanbul offering huge variety, so indulge yourself by sampling Simit, Açma, Gözleme , Balık Ekmek, Lokma and Köz Mısır, as well as the freshest of juices, pickles and more, just as the locals do; all these recipes are included at my cookery book ISTANBUL too.

Discover multicultural İstanbul Known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, the Kurtuluş district (formerly known as Tatavla) was historically a prominent Greek Orthodox and Armenian neighbourhood, has a strong Orthodox Greek and Armenian patisserie culture, and is also home to a few kosher bakeries. Here you can enjoy Paskalya Çöreği at Üstün Palmie Pastanesi, Borekitas at Kurtuluş Pastanesi and Armenian specialties such as Topik  and midye dolma at Marinee and Mezme restaurants. For Sephardic Jewish specialties such as borekitas, head to Büyükada Pastanesi in Big Island. And if you have a spare day, I recommend visiting the beautiful, multicultural Princes’ Islands, which are a very pleasant hour’s ferry trip away from İstanbul.

Strolling through delightful Arnavutkoy with my son.

Use public transport İstanbul has an efficient public transport system – Metro (subway), buses, trams and ferries – which I use all the time. It offers good value and means you avoid the traffic. The city is best discovered, though, by walking – go off the beaten track to check out local neighbourhoods.

Visit the city’s pazar (farmers’ markets)  Almost every neighbourhood has one, showcasing a huge variety of seasonal produce, including dried fruits, olives and nuts, as well as textiles and so much more. The pazar are the heartbeat of their neighbourhoods and a great way to observe and be a part of local life. Whenever I go to one, I always make time to have a bite of gözleme, accompanied by a glass of çay (Turkish tea), just as I used to do with my dear father, Orhan. 4th Levent Salı pazarı, Fatih Çarsamba pazarı, Besiktaş pazarı and Kadiköy Salı pazarı are among my favourites.

Discover modern İstanbul It is worth taking the Metro (subway) to discover the modern side of İstanbul and observe local life, if you can. I lived in 4th Levent in the modern, European side of the city for more than 15 years, which is a lovely, residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous Tuesday farmers’ market, Salı pazarı. After work, I loved driving to the Arnavutköy and Bebek districts to walk along the Bosphorus with my mother, Gülçin. We would then enjoy a glass of çay (Turkish tea) at Bebek Kahve whilst we watched the world go by. Sade Kahve in Rumehisarı, overlooking the Rumeli Fortress and the Bosphorus, also holds happy memories of having leisurely Turkish breakfasts there with my family.

İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets If you enjoy experiencing local life and eateries off the beaten track, I highly recommend taking an İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets. They offer a unique, in-depth exploration of the city’s culinary scene, showcasing the city’s diverse culinary culture.

Take a hands-on Turkish cookery class It really is special to take a hands-on Turkish cookery class when in İstanbul, learning how to enjoy the abundant seasonal produce and a variety of spices. I love teaching at Cookistan (cookistan.com). They also run their own wonderful cookery classes in their beautiful, friendly studio.

I lived in Istanbul over 15 years and our time with family always meant the most. Revisiting family, places with memories. I hope you make your own special memory in this magical city. For delicious recipes from Istanbul, places to visit, tips , you can order a copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, here.

 

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