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Fascinating Istanbul

Ciya – Where Traditional Turkish Recipes Kept Alive






One of the highlights of last week’s Istanbul trip was visiting the Ciya (www.ciya.com.tr) Restaurant at the Asian side, and what a treat it was. The headchef Musa Dagdeviren is now internationally known, and so deserve it. His passion is to bring out the forgotten recipes, dishes alive with adding his own touch. Ciya’s vast menu covers recipes from Mesopatamia to the Ottomans, from the Balkans to Caucasia, and focuses on regional dishes. I was delighted to meet them and I hope they keep on treasuring those wonderful recipes and pass them on.

The charming Ciya was a feast to all senses; I tasted the wonderful Pazi Borani (with a yoghurt base sauce), the stuffed dried eggplants with aromatic rice and ground meat, bulgur pilaff rice with wild herbs, and a dollop of yoghurt by the side. I could have kept on and on if I had any space left.. Highly recommended for a real foodie treat.

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Ferry Journey in Istanbul on a Snowy Day







Istanbul has been covered in snow last week, unlike the springlike weather in England. I was determined though to visit the Ciya restaurant, famous for keeping the traditional, almost forgotten Turkish recipes alive. And it was well worth every effort.

For me, the most pleasant way of going from the European side to Asian side of Istanbul (and vice versa) is via the traditional, nostalgic ferries. And you get to see the Bosphorus and the coast, as well as enjoy a traffic free 15 minutes journey. I once again admired grand buildings like the century old elegant Haydarpasa Terminal(busiest rail terminal in Turkey and the Middle East)with seagulls of Marmara at the background.

One of the treats of a ferry journey in Istanbul during winter is the offer of Salep drink. Salep is made from salep flour, that is made from grinding the dried tubers of Orchis mascula, Orchis militaris and related species of wild orchids. This flour, which is readily available at home, is then mixed with hot milk to make the salep drink. Turks love this drink in winter time, served with a generous pinch of cinnamon over the top. I enjoyed a cup of salep made at the ferry on the way to Kadikoy, really warmed the heart and soul.

You can also hop on and off at the traditional ferries; why not stop by at Ortakoy, enjoy the wonderful Ortakoy mosque, feed the pidgeons and have a little cay break? Istanbul is always calling, snow or sunshine:)

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Antiochia – A Jem in Istanbul & Galata Tower



I was delighted to discover the Antiochia Restaurant in Asmalimescit, Istanbul serving delicious cuisine of Antioch, Antakya (in the photo, the delicious mezes of walnuts and red pepper paste, hummus, olives with onion and oregano, kebabs with sumac and onion, all very yummy) where my roots are from. The owner and very creative Jale Balci wrote the wonderful book Antioch; City and Cuisine, an amazing book of Antioch’s wonderful recipes, cuisine and culture. This book is now available in English too and highly recommended.

And just minutes away from Asmalimescit is the newly upcoming Galata Tower region. Once it was one of the highest points during the Ottomans, Galata Tower offers spectacular views all around Istanbul. It has been buzzing with new cafes, tea shops
and artisan shops, such a wonderful place to stop by, reflect and enjoy the surroundings.

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